
Reconnecting Cacao & Chocolate
June 29, 2026
/Diana Cruz
A personal reflection from XOCO’s Chief Chocolate Maker.
“I grew up surrounded by cacao trees in Colombia. I remember the fruit. Breaking it open. Tasting the pulp—sweet, bright, alive. Cacao was never a mystery to me. But chocolate was.
Somewhere between the fruit we knew and the product we consumed, something was lost. A disconnect—quiet, almost invisible.
In the tropics, we grow up with the taste of cacao. But we don’t grow up understanding chocolate. And maybe that’s where the story really begins.”
The Lost Soul of the Fruit
“Taste has always moved the world. From the Silk Road to the spice trade, we have always been a species in pursuit of flavour. Cacao followed that same path, but somewhere along the way, the soul of the fruit was lost.
The distance isn’t just geographical; it’s a gap in understanding.
By separating the tree from the final product, we made the connection between them invisible. Cacao became a “raw material” and chocolate became a “product.” A void opened up where we stopped asking a fundamental question: Does this actually taste like a fruit?”

“We were taught what chocolate “should” taste like: sweet, milky, and standardized. It’s a familiar, comforting flavour, but one that has almost nothing to do with cacao itself.
Cacao is a deeply diverse fruit. Each tree can produce a different profile, ranging from acidic and fruity to floral or spiced. But that diversity disappears as soon as we start blending and correcting the beans for the sake of industrial consistency. This is what the chocolate industry has done for decades.“
Revealing the Real Taste of Cacao
“Fortunately, there is another way — we can choose to protect the taste of cacao instead of transforming it.
This starts with the tree. If you want to capture a precise flavour, you must respect the mother tree that produced it. Through grafting, we can preserve a specific flavour identity, allowing a unique variety to exist without being diluted into anonymity.
From that moment on, everything changes. You are no longer working with anonymous material.
Each cacao variety is fermented differently and roasted with precision. The goal is not to correct, but to reveal the original taste of the cacao fruit carried all the way through to the end chocolate.”

A Conversation with Nature
“Suddenly, the experience changes. Cacao remains alive even as chocolate, triggering a physical reaction and a lingering sensation. This is not a fixed taste, but something that moves and evolves.
Rediscovering cacao rebuilds a broken connection.
You are no longer eating a standardized, flat product; you are tasting a specific fruit of a specific variety.
That is when eating becomes truly pleasurable. That is when it becomes a real conversation with nature.”
